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“D” for Damask: “The Night Watch of the costume world.” Claude Fauque, Textile and Dress historian

Dress, Damas, XVIIe c.(detail). Museum Kaap Still.
Dress made of Silk, 17th c. Texel, Kaap Skil Museum

Au cours des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles, les tissus de soie en Europe échappent aux influences orientales de leur origine première et des styles nouveaux apparaissent. Continue reading “D” for Damask: “The Night Watch of the costume world.” Claude Fauque, Textile and Dress historian

“L” for Lace: Thinking about Lace. Michael Yonan, Associate Professor of Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century Art, Director of Graduate Studies, University of Missouri

Miguel Cabrera (Mexican, 1695-1768). Doña María de la Luz Padilla y Gómez de Cervantes, ca. 1760. Oil on canvas, 43 x 33 in. (109.2 x 83.8 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Collection Fund and Dick S. Ramsay Fund, 52.166.4
Doña María de la Luz Padilla y Gómez de Cervantes, ca. 1760. Miguel Cabrera (Mexican, 1695-1768). Oil on canvas, 43 x 33 in. (109.2 x 83.8 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Collection Fund and Dick S. Ramsay Fund, 52.166.4

Lace is largely consumed. All different sorts of Lace -of all sizes and qualities- from Normandy, du Puy and Lorraine have a great debit.”(Translated from Jean de Monségur, 1709, Chap. XXXVI)

When looking at early modern colonial portraits, the viewer’s attention is invariably drawn to the subjects’ clothing. Continue reading “L” for Lace: Thinking about Lace. Michael Yonan, Associate Professor of Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century Art, Director of Graduate Studies, University of Missouri

“A” for Appearance: The Culture of Clothing. “The Art of Tailoring”

“There is nor Church nor private in the Western Indies, who does not consume this kind of gold silk brocade; it has then to be considered for significant and its consumption shall rather increase than diminish, especially on occasions where vice-royalties looking for pomp and glory will walk through Mexico without wearing the golilla.” (Translated from Jean de Monségur, 1709, Chap. XXXVIII)

Pérez de Holguín, The Entrance of Don Diégo Morcillo, Viceroy of Peru, in the city of Potosí, in 1716, Bolivia, 1716. Painting, oil on canvas, 240 x 570 cm. Madrid, Museo de América, Inv 00087
Pérez de Holguín, The Entrance of Don Diégo Morcillo, Viceroy of Peru, in the city of Potosí, in 1716, Bolivia, 1716. Painting, oil on canvas, 240 x 570 cm. Madrid, Museo de América, Inv 00087

In early modern Europe, a man’s complete suit consisted of a coat (long vest or justaucorps), a vest (or waistcoat) and breeches. Continue reading “A” for Appearance: The Culture of Clothing. “The Art of Tailoring”

The Trade in the New Spanish Colonies (1600-1800)

Vincenzo Coronelli, Globes, 1683, Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France.
Vincenzo Coronelli, Globes, 1683, Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France.

In his dictionary of commerce, Savary des Bruslons writes that: “The West Indies, a Spanish colony, cannot do without merchandise and products manufactured in Europe” (Savary des Bruslons, I, Etat général du commerce, 1723). Continue reading The Trade in the New Spanish Colonies (1600-1800)

Dressing the new World: The Trade and the Culture of Clothing in the New Spanish Colonies 1600-1800.

F. Gerard Jollain (1717) Paris, BNF, Estampes et photographie, EST QB-1(1717) Source Gallica bnf.fr/Bibliotheque nationale de France
The Trade Indians from Mexico do with French on the Trading post in Mississipi, F. Gérard Jollain (1717). Paris, BNF, Estampes et photographie, EST QB-1(1717)
Source Gallica bnf.fr/Bibliothèque nationale de France
North and Central America. Nicolas de Fer (1713). GE C 24281 (RES) BNF, Cartes et plans.
North and Central America,
Nicolas de Fer (1713). Paris, BNF, Cartes et plans, GE C 24281 (RES)

What effect did the successful marketing of European products have on the New World at the beginning of the 18th century? And how should one go about studying the European Fashion and Textiles that transformed the way people dressed in the Spanish colonies? Continue reading Dressing the new World: The Trade and the Culture of Clothing in the New Spanish Colonies 1600-1800.